The Abandoned Subway
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Rochester once had an underground rapid transit system, called the Rochester Subway1. It is an incredible experience, an urban exploration opportunity rivaling the offerings of almost any other city2. As such it has become a popular destination for photographers and thrillseekers, along with being home for a sizable portion of the city's homeless. The city currently plans to transform the former Broad Street Aqueduct portion, and section beneath the Rundel Memorial Library Building into an underground walkway with a transportation museum and shops. |
History
Passengers boarding subway at City Hall Station, 1956. Credit: Rochester Municipal Archives
In 1900 the Erie Canal was re-routed to by-pass downtown Rochester, and in 1919 the abandoned canal was bought to serve as the core of the subway. The subway was built below, and the subway's roof was turned into Broad Street. The city grew, but the subway did not. Since most subway traffic is people commuting to work, the subway stopped serving its primary purpose, and it was abandoned. Passenger service ceased June 30, 1956. The western end was still used for freight through the 1970s, and Gannett used the tunnel for delivery of newsprint.
Layout
This portion of the article represents an attempt to describe the subway today as it exists today. The sections listed below generally follow an East to West path through the tunnel. In place of formal names for each section, they are generally referred to by either their historic significance or the buildings above them. Feel free to rename as you find appropriate.
East Entrance
Beyond the chain-link fence bordering South Ave lies an easy entrance to the subway. This location is found directly behind (and beneath) Dinosaur Bar-B-Que. From the safety of the sidewalk, you will be able catch a breathtaking view of this crumbling and overgrown entryway. Along the right wall is a small building that has been thoroughly ravaged by time and vandalism. Graffiti also appears along this wall. Entering here will take you beneath Court Street.
Rundel Memorial Library
An underground pool, part of the former Johnson and Seymour Millrace.
This location has some of the most interesting remaining structures. It is also the main section used as makeshift housing for the city's homeless. The first structure you're likely to notice is the massive stairwell rising to the ceiling in the center of the tunnel. Not long after you'll notice on your left hand side a pool of water crisscrossed by a catwalk pouring out into the Genesee River (this is part of the former Johnson and Seymour Millrace). Traveling further into the tunnel beneath the Rundel Memorial Library Building, you'll find a small building along the right wall. Behind it is a terror inspiring opening in the wall, just large enough for the average person to crawl inside.
Between this section and the aqueduct is another small section that stretches East under Broad Street. You won't find much here beyond the twisted remains of a metal staircase and homeless living in a raised alcove along the North wall.
Broad Street Aqueduct
Broad Street Aqueduct. Image by Robert Polyn.
This section of the tunnel has some of the most beautiful graffiti you're likely to find in the entire city. With the abundance of natural light allowed in through the aqueduct's arches, it is an ideal location for said art to be created and displayed. The tags on the walls change frequently, and as such this site demands return visits. It is a popular destination for photographers. (The Broad Street Bridge has its own page with more information)
Gannett Building
Inside the loading docks beneath the Gannett Building.
Following the Aqueduct you travel into darkness, natural light disappearing completely. You arrive at a wall with a single small door for yourself to enter through. Having remained in use many years longer than the previous sections, the decay of this section has a unique quality. Originally used for paper delivery for Gannett News (now: Democrat & Chronicle) and later storage, the remaining equipment also lends itself to the different sense of athmosphere this section has. Along the left wall you'll find a loading dock stretching across this space. Traveling through this section of the tunnel you'll arrive at another wall on the far side that allows you to exit through a large garage style opening.
West Tunnel
Looking into the tunnel's West section. - Photo by TomMaszerowski
This section starts with near complete darkness, light only visible coming in through a street level drain. There are fewer noteworthy strutures from this point onward. The tunnel opens to light and fresh air once again near Nick Tahou's. It is possible to enter and exit at this location, even bring a vehicle into the tunnel. Unlike the Court Street entrance, the original tracks are still in place here.
West Entrance
The tunnel at Brown and Broad. - Photo by TomMaszerowski
As you reach the end of the tunnel, or the West Entrance, there will be manholes along the tracks. Be careful as most, if not all, of the manhole covers have been removed. The tunnel ends at the intersection of Brown and Broad streets. This access point has been fenced in the past, so be prepared to turn back.
Controversy
The subway is scheduled to be partially filled in with dirt!
SECR (
http://www.ChillTheFill.org) is an umbrella group trying to stop this from happening. Among the reasons people have for objecting to this are:
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If Rochester is ever to grow, it will eventually need a subway system again, and filling in the existing tunnels would make it much more difficult to install a new subway system. The existing tunnels could make a new subway system fairly easy to construct.
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It would needlessly destroy property that could otherwise be put to use to benefit the city. The proposed "Broad Street Tunnel Project" will cost the city $21 million dollars to complete. A small fraction of that money could be used to seal off and maintain the tunnel for several years, and there are lots of things in the city which would be better uses of the $21 million, such as the Rochester Schools Problems.
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Private Studies indicate it would cost around $24 million to 'completely repair' it3.
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Rumor has it this project is just a 'gimme' to the highway and construction lobby to keep their workforce employed somewhere during the winter, since the upstate economy is bad. These rumors, to my knowledge, are unsubstantiated.
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It would destroy a historical landmark.
Alternative proposals exist. Among these are:
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A new rapid transit system in Rochester which would use some of the old tunnels; this idea is advocated for by the
Rochester Rail Transit Committee.
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Create a new waterway using the old aqueduct.
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Found an urban art center in the tunnel, embracing and showcasing the artwork that has naturally been drawn to that location.4
In the Media
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Filling in subway would hurt city's past and future, op-ed in the Democrat & Chronicle, 2005-06-14
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Rochester Wants to Fill Part of Erie Canal Bed, WXXI, 2008-06-11. "The City of Rochester says it will have to close one of the four lanes on West Broad Street this month, and the fix is to fill in the abandoned subway tunnel that lies beneath it."
Links
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Historical
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"The End of the Line" documentary - Now available as a Special Edition DVD from Animatus Studio! (Also available on VHS or DVD through the Public Library.)
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Current
Photos and Videos
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Flikr Photo Search - 138 great photos by Jack1962 of the subway, aqueduct and bridge.
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"Walking the Rails" (YouTube) or
(Google Video) A short documentary on exploring the abandoned subway tunnels.
Comments:
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2007-03-08 15:59:03 The End of the Line is a really fascinating DVD if you're into Rochester history. It gives an interesting view of our fair city during the time the subway was in service. —EastSideStephen
2007-10-13 11:57:29 "It would needlessly destroy property that could otherwise be put to use to benefit the city. The proposed "Broad Street Tunnel Project" will cost the city $21 million dollars to complete. A small fraction of that money could be used to seal off and maintain the tunnel for several years, and there are lots of things in the city which would be better uses of the $21 million, such as the Rochester Schools Problems."
That's a silly statement after the whole fast fairy nightmare. Why wasn’t that money spent on City Schools? —ChristopherMoshier
2008-09-01 15:56:01 Now one might wonder where all the track went - it was scavenged and is now being used as the main track in the New York Museum of Transportation. —PhilNg
2008-12-10 12:26:59 I've been down in the tunnel for work purposes (investigating parts of the tunnel that are deteriorating) and even though it's dark, dank, decrepit and dirty down there, it speaks to many possibilities, one being a revived light-rail system. Of course, the cost of such a system makes the idea of it being constructed nearly laughable. Rochester doesn't have the population or the money to justify a new light rail system. Maybe if President Obama has his way, we'll be able to do something like that in Rochester... But I doubt it. So in the meantime, I'd leave the tunnel for the bums, graffiti artists, paintball players and fearless citizens. There is no urgent need to fill it in, therefore, use that money elsewhere.. maybe start planning a light rail system? Pshaw right. —JesseGotham
- 1Contemporary photos however show that, like Boston's Green Line, it used single streetcar vehicles — so, using today's terms, it would be considered a light rail system.
- 2New York City's Freedom Tunnel is for children
- 3From the D&C Article
- 4Ok, I don't think this is actually a proposal, but it should be. The city really needs to think about offering something with more draw than a transit museum if it actually wants to bring people here. This is exactly the type of thing that would allow us to stand out in a positive way. Who wouldn't want to visit a museum showcasing graffiti in an abandoned subway? — RobertPolyn


