AndreaCogliati/Reviews/Lento

Executive Chef: Arthur Rogers

274 N. Goodman Street
Rochester, NY 14607
(585) 271-3470
http://www.lentorestaurant.com/
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Visited on February 26, 2008 at 8:00 pm

The restaurant, opened in Summer 2007, embodies slow food manifesto (Lento is Italian for slow), proudly offering healthy and original fine dining experience using only fresh, seasonal, local ingredients and privileging organic and bio-dynamic products.

Located in the promising Village Gate, Lento doesn't share the joint lively hip-hop culture. Dimmed lights, dark green and brown walls, wood and curtains create a cozy and soft ambient, ideal for a romantic, candle-light dinner or a relaxed old friend reunion. The inside room is ample enough and houses three distinct dining islands, offering privacy for small parties. A few tables outside would probably offer a nice outdoor dining experience when the whether allows it. Table cloths, glassware and silverware are of very good quality and in line with the class of the restaurant. The two-seat tables are really tiny though and can barely hold two plates, water and wine glasses and bottles.

The cuisine offers an eclectic and original interpretation of seasonal products. Executive Chef Arthur Rogers doesn't use half measures though. His creations are sharply flavored and he's not shy when using strong flavoring like garlic, balsamic vinegar, herbs or honey. This was our second visit to the establishment and we found a definite improvement to the cuisine, that lacked balance and harmony during our first visit in September last year. Now, the cuisine is more mature and balanced: flavors are still crisp and clear-cut but they don't fight in the dishes anymore. Very attentive to vegetarians in general, they also feature a vegetarian and vegan night every Thursday. Appetizers range from $7 to $14, while entrees are in $15-$33.

The wine list is pretty small and offers about 50 wines, 15 of which may be ordered by the glass. Main varietals and world regions are present with some remarkable absences, like Oregon. Despite being small, geographic indications are incomplete. Bottle prices range from $22 to $165, with above the average markups.

Instead of bread and butter they offer a garlic focaccia and rosemary olive oil. Good but a little too oily in the end.

We choose a NV Finger Lakes Vidal Blanc: dry, light bodied with crisp acidity, with fresh white flowers and a hint of ginger and lemongrass. A perfect pairing with our light appetizers, it showed some weaknesses with the entrees. A little overpriced at $22.

A mixed fry of calamari, piquillo peppers and chickpeas drizzled with organic garlic aioli. $9

Perfectly fried calamari: crispy outside and supple inside. Piquillo peppers balanced the sweetness of the seafood and the pungent taste of the garlic sauce. Great savor and balance.

Score: 14/20

Fresh mix of vegetables lightly fried in a chickpea flour batter with a white balsamic and local honey dipping sauce. $9

Very good mix of seasonal vegetables (broccoli, pumpkin, fennel, green peppers and portobello mushroom), once again fried to perfection. The sweet and sour dipping sauce reminds a Japanese tempura.

Score: 12.5/20

Wild pan seared Atlantic monkfish Provencal, with house made saffron cavatelli, roasted red peppers, Bang Island mussels, herbs and garlic in a tomato seafood broth, frizzled leeks. $28

Very good match with the firm meat of the monkfish, the crispy fried herbs, the smooth cavatelli and the broth. Mussels added some unique flavors to the result.

Score: 15/20

Pan seared Maine diver scallops, sweet Maine shrimp and littleneck clams in a citrus infused bouillabaisse stew with Sardinian cous cous, nicoise olives, fennel, tomato, grilled crostini. $32

The best dish of the night, full of different textures and flavors. Sardinian cous cous (called fregula in Italy), usually served dry, was a perfect support for the seafood and perfectly mated with the bouillabaisse.

Score: 16/20

Triple chocolate profiteroles. $8

Very good finish but definitely inferior to the appetizers and entrees. There's room for improvement in the dessert area.

Score: 11/20

Our server, Greg, was perfect. Friendly and helpful, present without being nosy. The new manager, Steve, is young and a bit shy but he has time to become more confident.

The bill totaled to $112, before taxes. Pretty inexpensive, considering they mostly use fresh organic ingredients.

The selection of ingredients and the inventive of the chef. Very nice and relaxing ambient.

Small wine list. Desserts can be improved.

Review by AndreaCogliati